Painting garage doors; siding, trim, or accent color
Points to consider before painting garage doors;
How many other features do you see in the front of the house besides garage doors
It is possible to make the front “too busy” or “too crowded”.
View your exterior from curb. does your structure include any of the following: front window trim, front porch, railings, pillars, cedar shakes, bricks, rocks around the garage doors, gables, dormers, etc.
If your home already has all of those features, then you may want to consider painting the garage doors siding colors to avoid that “busy look”.
If the front your structure lacks features, then painting garage doors trim or accent color can create an interesting focal point.
This client decided to have us paint the garage doors body color to avoid a “busy or crowded look”.
Here the structure itself make a statement with multiple features; dormers, cedar roofing, steps, front doors, shutters, large front windows, all visible from the curb.
Painting garage doors accent color
This option should be approached with caution. Your HOA may have policies regarding painting garage doors accent or trim color.
With the right color combination, painting garage doors accent color can achieve a very appealing look. Bellow image: this client chose to paint the garage doors the same color as the front door.
A perfect example of carefully chosen color combination
Recommended: painting garage doors siding color
The majority of homes we paint, garage doors are painted body color. Considering most garage doors are not exactly what we would consider a unique feature of your home.
Most of our clients agree that garage doors should be painted siding color while the trim around the doors are painted to match the trim on the rest of the house.
Caulking – This page is intended to be a supplement to your estimate document.
Caulking is a sealant that fills gaps, cracks, nail holes, and similar imperfections on the surface. In other words, caulking is applied where moisture would otherwise penetrate and causing leaks and deterioration. In this article, we will go over typically caulked areas on the exterior typical Northwest-style homes, and also areas that should never be sealed.
This is a must do for all houses. Moisture likes to hide in corners, edges, and under ledges. We can use quality sealants to prevent it from penetrating and causing any damage to the structure.
Butt-joints….but not all Butt-joints
Where two pieces of siding meet. Should they always be caulked? The answer depends on the manufacturer, and installation method used when the siding was first installed. NOTE: Generally, we do not recommend caulking butt-joints on cedar siding. Natural siding boards are designed to expand and contract with the elements and we do not want any adhesive to prevent their natural movement. We only caulk butt-joints on cedar siding if previously caulked. Fiber cement boards are caulked only when there is no metal flashing behind them. Some manufacturers do not require the metal flashing, therefore, we caulk the butt joint to keep the pieces together and also prevent moisture.
Trim boards & Wood Windows
Pretty much all trim joints need to be sealed. This is again to prevent moisture from penetrating into the crack/joint, but it also adds to the overall appearance of the surface.
Garage door trim – but never any part of the garage door itself
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
Gaps, cracks, failed knots, etc. Anything that might one day allow moisture to penetrate will be sealed.
Gaps, cracks, failed knots, etc. Anything that might one day allow moisture to penetrate will be sealed. Minneapolis House Painters recommends paying attention to corners and crevices as well as trim boards around windows and doors. It’s also recommended to use a cloth or rag ready to wipe up and smooth excess caulking before it sets on the siding
What should never be caulked!
Trim boards that sit on top the siding.
In the old days, the builder would install the trim, bring the siding up to it, and caulk the corner. On most new homes, the trim goes up after the siding is installed, which creates a large gap that should not be caulked. We need air circulation behind these boards and the opening acts as a water exit, should water ever go behind the boards.
Window weep hole should not be caulked
Designed to let water out of your windows, these small openings should never be sealed.
Garage door panels should not be caulked
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
The bottom of siding boards should not be caulked
Water is meant to exit through the bottom of each board. While paint does tend to somewhat glue these pieces together, caulking them is never advised and can cause permanent damage. Also, avoid caulking tongue-and-groove siding boards together.
Metal Flashing (or any metal to wood joint) should not be caulked
Another water exit pathway that should never be sealed.
Siding nails should not be caulked
Another item that needs room to play is siding boards themselves. the nails holding up the siding should not be caulked. A DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to achieve a cleaner look by caulking the siding nails, but the nail is guaranteed to push the caulking material out within a few months.
Question: is the old caulking removed before new coats are applied? Answer: similar to paint, previous coats of caulking are removed when they have failed and are chipping or peeling off the surface. Unlike the caulking around your bathtub or kitchen sink, exterior caulking is not meant to ever come off. It is not possible to remove it without damaging the surface. Very much like coats of paint, fresh coats of caulking are formulated to be applied to previous coats and use the previous coat for additional adhesion.
