Back-rolling paint into the texture where moisture would otherwise penetrate

The clear difference

Our standard process

Aside from the cosmetic difference, back-brushing increases durability by 4-5 additional years.

Why is back-brushing rough surfaces necessary?

Spray machines lay the paint on top of the surface. This is great as long as the surface is smooth – ie: hardie boards or cedar siding previously back-rolled. ON rougher surfaces, the sprayer cannot force the paint into the grain, allowing the coat to dry and trap millions of microscopic air pockets underneath. As paint ages, the resin oils that bond the pigments together begin to weaken. On a hot sunny day, the trapped air expands and causes the premature failure of the entire paint job in the form of bubbles, cracks, peeling, and chipping.

Back-rolling increases adhesion by forcing the paint into the grain, pushing out all the air that would otherwise be trapped in the texture. This method adds an additional 4-5 years to the life of our already durable paint job.

With High-nap rollers and the proper amount of pressure, we are able to push all trapped air out of the grain, forcing the material to fill the texture and bond with the siding.

Can you achieve the same results with spray alone?

On smooth surfaces, yes. Rough cut cedar or any type of material wiht rough open pores require back-rolling for proper adhesion.

Using a super high-nap roller (a roller with very long hair) we are able to reach all corners and edges, including the underside of each board and even in between tongue-and-groove siding.

Does ELEGANT PAINTING® crew use a sprayer at all?

Yes. We use spray machines to deliver the paint from the bucket to the siding, while a roller spreads the material and works it into the substrate. The sprayer is simply there to prevent the roller from having to be dipped in the bucket. We also use premium fine finish sprayers on front doors and interior trim.

Video transcript:

https://www.elegantpainting.com/importance-of-back-rolling/

ELEGANT PAINTING is one of the very few painting companies in the Puget sound area to back-roll the entire siding.

While other companies use sprayers to get the job done quicker, Back-rolling (or back-brushing) the siding is the most efficient application method recommended by all exterior paint manufacturers.

Spray machines lay the paint on top of the surface, allowing the coat to dry and trap millions of microscopic air pockets underneath. As paint ages, the resin oils that bond the pigments together begin to weaken. When exposed to high temperatures, the trapped air expands and causes the premature failure of the entire paint job in the form of bubbles, cracks, peeling, and chipping.

Back-rolling increases adhesion by forcing the paint into the grain and pushing out the air that would otherwise be trapped in the texture. This method adds an additional 4-5 years to the life of our already durable paint job.

While some painting companies claim to achieve the same cosmetic effect with a sprayer, back-rolled coats will always have superior durability. Paint that has been rubbed on the surface will always have better adhesion compared to the material that has simply been blown at the surface with a spray machine.

We use spray machines to deliver the paint from the bucket to the siding, while a roller spreads the material and works it into the grain. The sprayer is simply there to prevent the roller from having to be dipped in the bucket every few seconds. We also use premium fine finish sprayers on front doors and interior trim.

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Power Washing and Color Selection

Power washing a house is all about using the right materials and equipment. We soaked any visible mildew with our exterior bleach and TSP solution, allowed 5-10 minutes for the cleaner to activate, and power washed to remove fairly large amounts of mildew and other green growth from the siding, eaves, gutters, and back side of gutters.

Some Gutter damage

We will attempt to fix these issues that seem to have been developing for some years. These front gutters have been filled with water and are handing down with the weight of the water. We will attempt to push them back in place before painting. In the back of the house, above the sliding glass door, we have rusted gutters that are leaking. We have a spray product that can seal these holes from the inside and provide a 1-2 year seal. Looks like the little pines or needles from the nearby evergreen trees are filling up these gutters, blocking water from draining down the downspout, causing sitting water in the gutter, and the weight of this water is causing the gutters to come loose.

Possible Color Choices

Colors

Day 1 – Preparation

Friday July 26 – Estimated completion date: Monday July 29th. We started by masking windows to prevent any over spray, caulking any gaps, cracks, nail-holes, etc. We also removed some loose paint from the south side but there is still some scraping/priming to do on Monday. We were also able to apply both coats on about 70% of the house, and get started on the trim.

White Lightning caulking material was applied to all corner joints, and sides of windows, doors, etc.

Proper masking allows us to work fast without having to worry about making a mess!

Back-Rolling

As always, both coats are back-rolled to force the paint into the grain, and to make sure the paint is evenly spread.

Progress Photos

Final Product

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Colors

Step 1 – Power Washing

Pressure washing was completed on Tuesday May 28th. We removed some mildew from siding and gutters, spider webs, bee’s nests, etc. As with all our cedar siding projects, we allow plenty of drying time.

Step 2 – Preparation and painting

July 1st, 2013

We started with masking windows and covering up plants, walkways, front porch, rear deck, etc.

What we’ve done so far:

Apply 2 coats on siding, two coats on spindles front and back. 1st coat on Garage retainer walls, 1st coat on about 30% of the trim and windows.

Application started with spraying, and back-brushing 2 coats of Benjamin Moore Solid Oil based stain on cedar shakes. Why not use paint on the shakes? If paint ever fails (chips) on shakes, then they would need to be replaced. Paint is never recommended for exterior cedar shakes. The correct product for shakes is solid stain, which looks like paint but it does not chip or peel. Next time, the shakes simply need to be washed, and re-stained.

Getting into tight spots

We had to get a little creative to get behind all the plants to paint every square inch of the siding.

A fully protected plant was gently peeled away from the house and covered up. Once paint is dry, it will simply be pushed back into place.

An extension pole was used to push a covered plant away from the surface while the paint dries.

Application

We spray and back-roll or back-brush to add 3-5 years to an already durable Benjamin Moore paint job. Manufacturer recommends “knocking out” the sheen seen in this photo to improve durability.

Second coat

As always, we apply two coats, and back-roll both coats to increase adhesion, and produce an even layer.

Before

After

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Cost of painting fiber cement siding

Elegant Painting offers exceptionally low bids on homes with fiber cement Siding

What is fiber cement siding?
Fiber cement siding is a type of popular artificial siding that can withstand all kinds of climates, including our damp Northwest weather. Currently 5.5 million homes in America are being protected by this type of materials.
Fiber cement boards are made of sand, cement and cellulose fibers. Complete with artificial texture, this siding resembles wood siding and even imitation shingles. Once installed and painted, the exterior fiber cement boards require very little maintenance, and is not susceptible to termites or rot.

Do fiber cement boards need to be painted?
Yes. James Hardy of Hardieplank siding recommends painting the siding using a 100% acrylic exterior paint, such as the Benjamin Moore Exterior SuperSpec used by Elegant Painting. If fiber cement boards are not painted when a paint job is due, the moisture content of the substrate falls bellow normal levels, and they may warp, bend, and crack.

Does it cost more to paint a house with fiber cement siding?
No. Elegant painting bids are lower for homes that have fiber cement siding. Fiber cement boards take and hold paint extremely well, and are less labor intensive when it comes to back-rolling the paint, resulting in lowered labor and paint costs, which are handed directly down to home-owners.

Does it need caulking?
Yes. Per manufacturer recommendation, joints and gaps will be caulked to prevent moisture and wind driven rain from entering the walls. We also caulk around windows, doors, eaves, and other edges to make to prevent leaks. Using our premium flexible, rubber based calking called Sika, which is manufactured by The Sika Group of America. This is not ordinary caulk. This material dies into a hard yet flexible rubber that is similar to materials used in car tires. It remains strong and flexible well after it is dried and cured. Failing caulk on previously caulked joints are removed and a fresh coat is applied.

How does Elegant painting apply paint on fiber cement siding?

After our standard preparation procedures, paint is applied with airless sprayers, and the surface is back-rolled before the paint dries. Back-rolling is absolutely essential on all exterior siding. This method forces the paint into the substrate and produces a very even finish. Back-rolling adds 3-5 years to the life of our already durable paint job.

By Elegant Painting Kirkland WA

Cost of painting fiber cement siding

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Elegant Painting

11717 NE 144TH PL
KIRKLAND, WA98034

Phone: (425) 242-4646

Monday-Friday 4-8pm