Our team produces consistent quality by following specific preparation and application methods suggested by paint and siding manufacturers.
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[restab title=”1) Washing” active=”active”]
The main purpose of washing before painting is to remove that invisible layer of pollution which would otherwise mix with the paint and alter the formula. Drying time ranges 1-7 days depending on temperature and humidity. We wash up to 1 month ahead of painting.
We take special care not to direct the washer at windows and doors, we also take precautions to prevent water from finding its way behind the siding.
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[restab title=”2) Masking”]
As part of our exterior painting quote, we guarantee that the following items will be masked, covered up, and protected from any paint drips, splatters, and over-spray.
Large Plants
We love plants. We spend the entire spring & summer around them and do everything we can to protect them from the paint. There are situations where a plant might need to be pruned to allow us access to the surface behind it, but usually, we have multiple methods to cover-up and pull plants away from the surface, with minimum disturbance to the plant. Once the paint is dry, we simply release the plant to its original position.
Small plants
we use our plant protectors to keep paint off of smaller plants, and also protect them from being stepped on.
Roofing
Roofing material will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. Areas close to the siding, the roofing material will be masked precisely, while the drop cloths cover the rest as needed. We paint roof flashing only when it has already been painted(mistakenly) by previous painters.
Decking
Decks, porches, railings, etc. will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. The body of the deck will be covered up to prevent paint drops, overspray, splatters, etc.
Exterior Lights
Patio lights will be removed and re-installed. Floodlights (which require an electrician to reinstall) will be masked off and protected.
Weatherstripping
Removable weather stripping will be taken off and reinstall. Other types of weatherstripping (i.e. bottom of garage doors) will be masked off and protected
Windows
All windows will be masked precisely. Once masking is removed, all windows will be closely inspected to ensure perfect lines and flawless edges.
Fences
Fences will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. The area touching the house will be masked precisely, while the body of the fence will be covered with drop cloths or tarps. overspray, splatters, etc.
Refinishing one side of the fence while Keeping overspray from going through.
Gas & electricity meters
We follow directions from utility companies, and cover-up the readers as needed.
Water Spicket
We paint pickets that are previously painted.
Bricks/Rocks
Power outlet, garage door keypad, & doorbell
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[restab title=”3) Peeling Paint”]
We have developed a special treatment, unique to the south-side of your home. This process focuses on removing any existing failed coats, applying one solid coat of penetrating oil-based primer, and back-rolling 2 coats of premium grade Sherwin Williams® exterior paint.
Removal of failed previous coats
The first step is to remove all peeling or chipping paint. This task is accomplished using a combination of hand and power tools. While we do not attempt to remove ALL of the previous paint, our goal is to remove any existing loose paint, along with any layers that might fail within the next few years.
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[restab title=”4) Primer”]
Role of Primer in Exterior House Painting
Priming is mandatory for exterior surfaces in our damp climate. Primer acts as a sealant. It covers water stains, oil stains, and any other material that be present on the substrate. Without primer, your wood siding is exposed to the elements. Primer is an under-coat applied before painting. Priming improves adhesion, increases durability, and is an excellent protector for an exterior substrate. As the paint dries, it undergoes chemical reactions. Water evaporates from paint as it cures. Primer controls the curing pace of finish paint and allows it to cure slowly while the chemical reaction is taking place.
Applying Exterior Primer
Primer should never be sprayed on. Having a thin, sprayed layer of primer sitting on the surface offers little to no protection. Brush and roll method is recommended to ensure proper penetration, even spread, and better adhesion.
Please feel free to call, email, or text us if you have any questions about our procedures or any of our do-it-yourself articles. We are not just a business, we are here to help.
never before painted surfaces – Because this home was previously stained, applying primer to the entire exterior is the only durable option.
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[restab title=”5) Caulking”]
Caulking is a sealant that fills gaps, cracks, nail holes, and similar imperfections on the surface. In other words, caulking is applied where moisture would otherwise penetrate and cause deterioration. In this article, we will go over typically caulked areas on the exterior typical Northwest style homes, and also areas that should never be sealed.
What must be caulked
What must be caulked (Jump to “what should never be caulked” section)
Corners
This is a must do for all houses. Moisture likes to hide in corners, edges, and under ledges. We can use quality sealants to prevent it from penetrating and causing any damage to the structure.
Butt-joints….but not all Butt-joints
Where two pieces of siding meet. Should they always be caulked? The answer depends on the manufacturer, and installation method used when the siding was first installed. Generally, we do not recommend caulking butt-joints on cedar siding. Natural siding boards are designed to expand and contract with the elements and we do not want any adhesive to prevent them from doing what they are supposed to do. We only caulk butt-joints on cedar siding if previously caulked. Fiber cement boards are caulked only when there is no metal flashing behind them. Some manufacturers do not require the metal flashing, therefore we caulk the butt joint to keep the pieces together and also prevent moisture.
Trim boards & Wood Windows
Pretty much all trim joints need to be sealed. This is again to prevent moisture from penetrating into the crack/joint, but it also adds to the overall appearance of the surface.
Garage door trim – but never any part of the garage door itself
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
Imperfections on the Siding
Gaps, cracks, failed knots, etc. Anything that might one day allow moisture to penetrate, will be sealed.
What should never be caulked!
Trim boards that sit on top the siding.
In the old days, the builder would install the trim, bring the siding up to it, and caulk the corner. On most new homes, the trim goes up after the siding is installed, which creates a large gap that should not be caulked. We need air circulation behind these boards and the opening acts as a water exit should water ever go behind the boards.
Window weep hole should not be caulked
Designed to let water out of your windows, these small openings should never be sealed.
Garage door panels should not be caulked
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
Bottom of siding boards should not be caulked
Water is meant to exit through the bottom of each board. While paint does tend to somewhat clue these pieces together, caulking them is never advised and can cause permanent damage. Also avoid caulking tongue-and-groove siding boards together.
Metal Flashing (or any metal to wood joint) should not be caulked
Another water exit pathway that should never be sealed.
Siding nails should not be caulked
Another item that needs room to play, is siding boards themselves. the nails holding up the siding should not be caulked. A DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to achieve a cleaner look by caulking the siding nails, but the nail is guaranteed to push the caulking material out within a few months.
Question: is the old caulking removed before free coats are applied? Answer: similar to paint, previous coats of caulking are removed when they have failed and are chipping or peeling off the surface. Unlike the caulking around your bathtub or kitchen sink, exterior caulking is not meant to ever come off. It is not possible to remove it without damaging the surface. Very much like coats of paint, fresh coats of caulking are formulated to be applied on top previous coats and use the previous coat for additional adhesion.
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[restab title=”6) Application”]
To increase speed, most painting companies spray as much of the exterior as they can. ELEGANT PAINTING® is one of the very few painting companies in the Puget sound area to follow instructions provided by siding manufacturers, and back-roll the entire siding. Back-rolling(or back-brushing) is the original and accurate application method and also recommended by all exterior paint manufacturers.
exterior painters Redmond WA 98052
The clear difference
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[restab title=”7) Clean-up”]
Every estimate includes complete cleanup. We will leave nothing behind, and do our best to leave your property cleaner than we found it. Patios, driveways, and roofs are always cleaned with garden blowers, all masking paper, plastic, etc. are removed and taken away. We also leave you with a touch-up kit that includes labeled pint size cans of the colors used in your house, and some small tools to help you do any future touch ups as needed.
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[restab title=”Our crew”]
Our crew is directly employed, insured, and bonded through Elegant Painting®. By avoiding subcontractors, we are able to offer you consistency in quality and customer service.
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