This page is intended to be a supplement to your estimate document As part of our Exterior painting quote, we guarantee that the following items will be masked, covered up, and protected from any paint drips, splatters, and over-spray.
Large plants
Your larger plants and shrubs will be covered using Drop cloths and tarps.
Small plants
We use our plant protectors to keep paint off of smaller plants, and also protect them from being stepped on.
Roofing
Roofing material will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. Areas close to the siding, the roofing material will be masked precisely, while the drop cloths cover the rest as needed. We paint roof flashing only when it has already been painted (mistakenly) by previous painters.
Decking
Decks, porches, railings, etc. will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. The body of the deck will be covered up to prevent paint drips, overspray, splatters, etc.
Patio lights
Patio lights will be removed and re-installed. Any fixtures that may require an electrician to reinstall, will be masked off and protected in place.
Weatherstripping
Removable weatherstripping will be taken off and reinstalled. Other types of weather stripping (i.e. bottom of garage doors) will be masked off and protected
Windows
All windows will be masked precisely. Once masking is removed, all windows will be closely inspected to ensure perfect lines and flawless edges.
Fences
Fences will be protected using masking machines and 3m masking paper. The area touching the house will be masked precisely, while the body of the fence will be covered with drop cloths or tarps. overspray, splatters, etc.
Gas & electricity meters
We follow directions from utility companies, and cover up the readers as needed.
Aside from the cosmetic difference, back-brushing increases durability by 4-5 additional years.
Why is back-brushing rough surfaces necessary?
Spray machines lay the paint on top of the surface. This is great as long as the surface is smooth – ie: hardie boards or cedar siding previously back-rolled. ON rougher surfaces, the sprayer cannot force the paint into the grain, allowing the coat to dry and trap millions of microscopic air pockets underneath. As paint ages, the resin oils that bond the pigments together begin to weaken. On a hot sunny day, the trapped air expands and causes the premature failure of the entire paint job in the form of bubbles, cracks, peeling, and chipping.
Back-rolling increases adhesion by forcing the paint into the grain, pushing out all the air that would otherwise be trapped in the texture. This method adds an additional 4-5 years to the life of our already durable paint job.
With High-nap rollers and the proper amount of pressure, we are able to push all trapped air out of the grain, forcing the material to fill the texture and bond with the siding.
Can you achieve the same results with spray alone?
On smooth surfaces, yes. Rough cut cedar or any type of material wiht rough open pores require back-rolling for proper adhesion.
Using a super high-nap roller (a roller with very long hair) we are able to reach all corners and edges, including the underside of each board and even in between tongue-and-groove siding.
Does ELEGANT PAINTING® crew use a sprayer at all?
Yes. We use spray machines to deliver the paint from the bucket to the siding, while a roller spreads the material and works it into the substrate. The sprayer is simply there to prevent the roller from having to be dipped in the bucket. We also use premium fine finish sprayers on front doors and interior trim.
ELEGANT PAINTING is one of the very few painting companies in the Puget sound area to back-roll the entire siding.
While other companies use sprayers to get the job done quicker, Back-rolling (or back-brushing) the siding is the most efficient application method recommended by all exterior paint manufacturers.
Spray machines lay the paint on top of the surface, allowing the coat to dry and trap millions of microscopic air pockets underneath. As paint ages, the resin oils that bond the pigments together begin to weaken. When exposed to high temperatures, the trapped air expands and causes the premature failure of the entire paint job in the form of bubbles, cracks, peeling, and chipping.
Back-rolling increases adhesion by forcing the paint into the grain and pushing out the air that would otherwise be trapped in the texture. This method adds an additional 4-5 years to the life of our already durable paint job.
While some painting companies claim to achieve the same cosmetic effect with a sprayer, back-rolled coats will always have superior durability. Paint that has been rubbed on the surface will always have better adhesion compared to the material that has simply been blown at the surface with a spray machine.
We use spray machines to deliver the paint from the bucket to the siding, while a roller spreads the material and works it into the grain. The sprayer is simply there to prevent the roller from having to be dipped in the bucket every few seconds. We also use premium fine finish sprayers on front doors and interior trim.
There are two ways of deciding Exterior Paint colors that go with red brick;
1) Try to match the color of the bricks, or find a close enough color that does not produce too much of a contrast.
Choose this option if you are interested in avoiding a bold color statement. About 50% of our clients are simply not interested in choosing colors that are too different than what is normal or average in their area, or in the Northwest in general. By choosing colors that somewhat match your bricks, you are avoiding the risk of offending anyone’s taste. having say a light gray right next to red bricks might be the most pleasing configuration to me, but to the next person it might appear unusual and offend their sense of color and taste. My recommendation
By choosing colors that somewhat match your bricks, you are avoiding the risk of offending anyone’s taste. Having a light gray right next to red bricks might be the most pleasing configuration to me, but to the next person, it might appear unusual and offend their sense of color and taste.
My recommendation is unless your home is about to go on the market, and within the bounds of your HOA policies, choose what makes you happy and enjoy it!
Here we used to bricks as a transition between siding color and the front door color. the door is the darkest deepest color on the home, then it transitions into a less dramatic reddish color of the bricks, and then we have a very pleasant Sherin Williams ® brown, which also has a few drops of red to give it a unique flavor.
2) Do your exterior colors need to match the brick?
This is an entirely different, but equally valid perception. The bricks are meant to be different. They are supposed to pop out. They act as focal points and in some homes, they are virtually a bellyband or baseboards for the exterior.
Caulking – This page is intended to be a supplement to your estimate document.
Caulking is a sealant that fills gaps, cracks, nail holes, and similar imperfections on the surface. In other words, caulking is applied where moisture would otherwise penetrate and causing leaks and deterioration. In this article, we will go over typically caulked areas on the exterior typical Northwest style homes, and also areas that should never be sealed.
This is a must do for all houses. Moisture likes to hide in corners, edges, and under ledges. We can use quality sealants to prevent it from penetrating and causing any damage to the structure.
Butt-joints….but not all Butt-joints
Where two pieces of siding meet. Should they always be caulked? The answer depends on the manufacturer, and installation method used when the siding was first installed. NOTE: Generally, we do not recommend caulking butt-joints on cedar siding. Natural siding boards are designed to expand and contract with the elements and we do not want any adhesive to prevent their natural movement. We only caulk butt-joints on cedar siding if previously caulked. Fiber cement boards are caulked only when there is no metal flashing behind them. Some manufacturers do not require the metal flashing, therefore, we caulk the butt joint to keep the pieces together and also prevent moisture.
Trim boards & Wood Windows
Pretty much all trim joints need to be sealed. This is again to prevent moisture from penetrating into the crack/joint, but it also adds to the overall appearance of the surface.
Garage door trim – but never any part of the garage door itself
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
Imperfections on the Siding
Gaps, cracks, failed knots, etc. Anything that might one day allow moisture to penetrate will be sealed.
Gaps, cracks, failed knots, etc. Anything that might one day allow moisture to penetrate will be sealed. Minneapolis House Painters recommends paying attention to corners and crevices as well as trim boards around windows and doors. It’s also recommended to use a cloth or rag ready to wipe up and smooth excess caulking before it sets on the siding
What should never be caulked!
Trim boards that sit on top the siding.
In the old days, the builder would install the trim, bring the siding up to it, and caulk the corner. On most new homes, the trim goes up after the siding is installed, which creates a large gap that should not be caulked. We need air circulation behind these boards and the opening acts as a water exit, should water ever go behind the boards.
Window weep hole should not be caulked
Designed to let water out of your windows, these small openings should never be sealed.
Garage door panels should not be caulked
While a DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to produce a cleaner look by sealing all gaps on a wood garage door, garage door panels are designed to move. The panels on your garage door require room for free-play. Caulking them is a mistake and the caulking is likely to fail prematurely.
The bottom of siding boards should not be caulked
Water is meant to exit through the bottom of each board. While paint does tend to somewhat glue these pieces together, caulking them is never advised and can cause permanent damage. Also, avoid caulking tongue-and-groove siding boards together.
Metal Flashing (or any metal to wood joint) should not be caulked
Another water exit pathway that should never be sealed.
Siding nails should not be caulked
Another item that needs room to play is siding boards themselves. the nails holding up the siding should not be caulked. A DIYer or a novice painter might attempt to achieve a cleaner look by caulking the siding nails, but the nail is guaranteed to push the caulking material out within a few months.
Question: is the old caulking removed before new coats are applied? Answer: similar to paint, previous coats of caulking are removed when they have failed and are chipping or peeling off the surface. Unlike the caulking around your bathtub or kitchen sink, exterior caulking is not meant to ever come off. It is not possible to remove it without damaging the surface. Very much like coats of paint, fresh coats of caulking are formulated to be applied to previous coats and use the previous coat for additional adhesion.
Since almost all homes in Washington state have some sort of ever green tree background, brown exterior paint colors are our most popular and pleasant earth tone.
We have spent years experimenting with different shades of Brown Exterior paint colors, and would like to share some of our findings with anyone in the process of deciding exterior house colors.
Not to be confused with “slate”, which is actually a dark deep gray, our darker browns are more suitable for either larger homes, or homes with what I call “interesting fronts”.
That is a house with lots of features in the front; plenty of trim to break up all the darkness of the brown, and maybe some rocks or other features to take away some of the strength of the dark color.
In most cases, I would not recommend dark Brown Exterior paint colors for ramblers. Darker colors can miniaturize the house further, and give it a more aged look.
Of course, your house color represents your personality, and if you do not plan on selling your home anytime soon, you must simply choose something you enjoy looking at.
Body: Benjamin Moore HC-85 Trim: Benjamin Moore Bone white
If you do plan on selling, I suggest choosing exterior colors similar to what new home builders are using these days.
Keep in mind, your potential buyers might be looking at newer homes before stoping by at your listing. The goal is to avoid any colors that might not appeal to certain personalities.
Favorite Brown Exterior paint colors
A braver approach to brown exterior paint colors
We also use plenty of fun and exiting browns. These browns usually have plenty of red in them, making them very attractive in the right situation.
You really have to have the right house for this kind of color. You need plenty of other features in the front so the unique color does not overwhelm the senses.
In the first image below, the huge brick surface draws some much of your attention.
You almost must have a unique color to keep the rest of the house from disappearing.
Second photo, this house has a very unique shape with multiple dormers on the roof, and also the roof is highly visible from the street, allowing this homeowner to choose as unique of a color as they please.
The third house, it was the shear size of it that allowed us to get away with pretty much any exterior paint color.
Neutral, earthy, & mild brown exterior paint colors
Here are a few brown exterior paint colors that appeal to every taste, and most importantly, do not offend anyones preferences.
If you want to keep things simple, blend in a little bit, or just want a nice normal color, here are few of our favorites from Benjamin Moore.
Our #1 choice for the Northwest climate, READY SEAL, repels water like no other! With READY SEA, you only need to hire a professional the first time. After your existing stain has been removed and replaced, re-application (in approximately 2-5 years) can be a DIY project for a slightly handy person.
READY SEAL protects from UV exposure, rotting, and moisture and is suitable for decks, railings, fences, benches, exterior furniture, and cedar shakes.
A beautiful deck in Woodinville, WA – complete with elegantly painted multicolor railings.
Elegant Painting crew member back-brushing while keeping a wet edge to ensure the most even and over-lap free finish.
Pressure washing assures we have a substrate that is clear of dust, dirt, and pollution. We apply one coat of 30 second house cleaner If any visible mildew is growing on the surface. The amount of water pressure is determined by the type of surface being washed. If we are working with delicate cedar chokes, pressure is lowered to make sure shingles do not detach. When washing tougher types of siding materials, pressure can be increased. We always use an angled pressure washer tip to direct the flow down wards and prevent moisture from being forced under the siding.
Drying time is determined based on temperature and humidity. On average, we wait one week to resume our preparation. Often painters are in a rush to complete project and start painting 1-2 days after power washing which can cause premature failure of the paint job.
Preparing 20 year old garage doors to be painted for the very first time.
Step 2; Masking and cover up
Every project starts with masking and cover-up. We protect windows, roofing, walkways, plants, or any other surface that is not being painted. Exterior lights, thermometers, and other similar items are removed from the house, while other items, such as patio furniture are placed a safe distance away.
Sanding – Round 1
While major sanding takes place after the primer is applied, we give a rough pass to the entire surface to remove any splinters raised by the pressure washer. Sanding dust is removed by dusters, vacuums, and powerful gas blowers. NOTE on lead based paints: this type of clean up applies to home build after 1978.
Primer – First coat
Once the surface is clean and dust is removed from the surface and surrounding areas, we apply our first coat of oil based exterior stain to seal the substrate. Primer can be brushed or spray/back/rushed to ensure proper adhesion. Drying time is determined based on temperature and humidity.
After 2 coats of primer, and sanded before and after each coat.
Sanding – Round 2
Once our fast drying oil primer is fully dry, we sand the entire surface to flatten cedar pores, and restore the surface to original condition as much as possible. Again, the surface and surrounding areas are clean of all sanding dust.
Primer – Second Coat
Now we apply a second coat of oil primer and allow sufficient drying time. Back-brushing may be needed for rough surfaces.
Paint Application
We back-roll the paint on the siding. While most painting companies believe a sprayed on coat suffices, Elegant painting takes durability to another level. Our application method includes bankrolling the entire siding twice. Paint is applied using airless sprayers, and is spread using rollers. Back-rolling forces the paint into the surface, filling all microscopic “moisture pockets”. Back-rolling also improves adhesion and produces an even spread. Gutters, corner boards, belly bands, fascia boards and other trim pieces are then hand painted twice using brush and rollers. Come find us on Google+
We start by removing all the loose paint using hand scrapers and sandpapers. The idea here is to remove paint that is chipping and paint that may chip in the next 2-3 years. All work is done by manual hand tools. We take special care not to damage any corners or edges and maintain any lines and grooves.
Step 2 – Removing the dust
Once the sanding and scraping are complete, we use high power gas blowers to remove all sanding dust from the surface and surrounding areas. NOTE on lead-based paints: this type of cleanup applies to home build after 1978.
Step 3 – Masking
Once all the sanding dust is removed, we mask the glass and any surrounding areas that need to be protected from over-spray.
Step 4 – Primer
After masking, we primer the entire window with our premium quality exterior oil based primer. Window sash and any rough areas are back-brushed to force the primer into the surface. Once the primer is dry, we inspect all surfaces for any imperfections or roughness, and hand sand to improve our substrate.
Step 5 – Caulking
Similar to paint, caulking and other adhesives adhere better to primer than they do to bare wood or aged painted surfaces. Caulking is always applied after primer application. At this time, we perform a final inspection of the entire window surface to make sure there are no other imperfections; mail holes, cracks, gaps, etc.
Step 6 – Paint Application
Paint is applied using fine finish airless spray tips to produce the most perfect, flawless finish possible. We always apply two coats and inspect, caulk, or sand as needed, in between coats. Spraying windows ensures they are not painted shut and gives us that “furniture finish” look.
Inside edges
We highly recommend NOT painting any of the inside edges (parts of the window that are visible only when the window is open). Most wood windows are constructed with stain-grain wood, which means these windows should have initially been stained and never painted. Adding layers of paint to inside edges may make them stick shut. Even if windows are kept open for several days while paint dries, on a hot day 1-2 years down the road, the paint will soften, and the weather stripping will glue itself to the window frame.
We are having a blast working on this beautiful home in Woodinville, WA. We are able to produce flawless jobs on large homes by splitting each project into 4-5 smaller portions. Each portion is prepped, painted both coats, touched up, and cleaned up before we move on to the rest.
As always, we tackled the most time-consuming parts of the house on our first day. Our preparation includes caulking any cracks, gaps, nail holes, etc. we also removed a fair amount of moss from the top of the chimney. Luckily the moss has not caused any damage to the substrate. We had excellent painting weather on our first day, which allowed us to apply the second coat on the body and the trim on the same day.
Chimneys do not have eaves above them to protect them from the elements, and usually receive a fair amount of abuse from moisture and UV exposure. We often do more scraping and apply extra thick coats of material to help the chimney age at the same rate as the rest of the siding.
We love our masking guys. they are the reason we can guarantee, in writing, that there will not be any paint slopped on windows, decks, driveways, etc.
Day 2
Today we tackled and completed the front of the house. We had a fair amount of trim, and plenty of small areas to paint. As usual, we take our time with masking, knowing a great tape-job allows our painters to move so much faster. Everything in the front received 2 coats, hand-brushed to perfection…and we have yet to splatter a single drop of paint on the bricks 🙂
While we brush the tops of the pillars to produce perfect lines, the body of the Pillars will be sprayed using a Fine Finish spray tip. We use fine finish tips on interior trim, and exterior doors. Using the rights equipment we are able to produce “factory finished” surfaces.
All time consuming and challenging portions of the project were completed by 10AM day 2.
Second coat
Our crew will always apply a second coat and back roll to ensure a perfectly even and durable finish.
